Bearded Dragon Care: Complete Owner's Guide

With their spiky 'beards', curious personalities, and surprisingly dog-like behaviour, bearded dragons have captured the hearts of reptile enthusiasts worldwide. These charismatic Australian natives make fantastic pets for both beginners and experienced keepers – but they do require specific care to thrive.

Whether you're considering getting your first bearded dragon or want to ensure you're providing the best possible care for your current beardie, this comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know. Let's dive into the wonderful world of bearded dragon keeping!

Understanding Bearded Dragons

Species Overview

Meet your potential new companion:

• Scientific name: Pogona vitticeps (Central/Inland Bearded Dragon)
• Origin: Central Australia
• Size: 40-60cm total length, including tail
• Weight: 350-600g when fully grown
• Lifespan: 10-15 years with proper care
• Activity: Diurnal (active during the day)
• Temperament: Generally calm, curious, and handleable

Why They Make Great Pets

Bearded dragons are popular for good reasons:

• Interactive and personable
• Recognise and respond to their owners
• Tolerate and often enjoy handling
• Fascinating behaviours to observe
• Manageable size
• Hardy and forgiving of minor care mistakes
• Active during the day when you're home
• Don't require live vertebrate prey

Understanding Their Behaviour

Bearded dragons have unique communication methods:

• Arm waving: Submissive gesture, acknowledgment
• Head bobbing: Dominance display, territorial behaviour
• Beard puffing/darkening: Stress, aggression, or temperature regulation
• Mouth gaping: Thermoregulation (cooling down)
• Glass surfing: Stress, boredom, or wanting out
• Pancaking: Flattening body to absorb more heat

Housing Requirements

Enclosure Size

Bigger is always better:

• Hatchlings (0-6 months): 40-gallon minimum (90x45x45cm)
• Juveniles (6-12 months): 75-gallon minimum (120x45x45cm)
• Adults (12+ months): 120-gallon minimum (120x60x60cm)
• Ideal adult size: 150-180 gallons (180x60x60cm)
• Length rule: Enclosure should be at least 1.5x dragon's length

Enclosure Type

Choose appropriate housing:

• Glass terrariums: Good visibility, widely available
• Wooden vivariums: Excellent insulation, popular in UK
• PVC enclosures: Lightweight, retain heat well
• Custom builds: Perfect size, more expensive
• Avoid: Wire cages, aquariums without proper ventilation

Essential Features

Your enclosure needs:

• Secure screen top or front-opening doors
• Adequate ventilation
• Easy access for cleaning
• Cable ports for equipment
• Waterproof base
• Sturdy construction

Temperature and Heating

Temperature Requirements

Precise temperatures are crucial:

• Basking spot: 38-42°C (surface temperature)
• Warm side ambient: 32-35°C
• Cool side: 24-29°C
• Night-time: 18-24°C (can drop lower)
• Temperature gradient: Essential for thermoregulation

Heating Equipment

Provide appropriate heat sources:

• Basking bulb: 75-150W depending on enclosure size
• Ceramic heat emitter: For night-time if needed
• Deep heat projector: Efficient, long-lasting option
• Halogen bulbs: Provide heat and visible light
• Avoid: Heat rocks (burn risk), heat mats alone (insufficient)

Thermostat Use

Absolutely essential:

• Type: Dimming thermostat for bulbs
• Probe placement: At basking spot level
• Purpose: Prevents overheating and burns
• Cost: £30-£80
• Never optional: Critical safety equipment

Monitoring Temperature

Accurate measurement essential:

• Digital thermometers: With probes for accuracy
• Infrared thermometer: Check basking spot surface temp
• Multiple thermometers: Monitor warm and cool sides
• Check daily: Make it part of routine
• Avoid: Stick-on dial thermometers (inaccurate)

Lighting Requirements

UVB Lighting: Non-Negotiable

Essential for health and survival:

• Why essential: Enables vitamin D3 synthesis, calcium absorption
• Without it: Metabolic bone disease, death
• Type: 10.0 or 12% UVB tube (desert species strength)
• Size: Cover 2/3 of enclosure length
• Placement: 30-45cm from basking spot
• Mounting: Inside enclosure if possible (glass blocks UVB)
• Replacement: Every 6-12 months even if still glowing

Visible Light

Basking bulb provides both heat and light:

• Bright white light during day
• Mimics natural sunlight
• Stimulates natural behaviour
• Helps regulate circadian rhythm

Photoperiod

Maintain natural day/night cycle:

• Summer: 14 hours light, 10 hours dark
• Winter: 10-12 hours light, 12-14 hours dark
• Use timer: Automate for consistency
• Complete darkness at night: No lights needed

Substrate Options

Safe Substrate Choices

Choose appropriate flooring:

• Tile: Excellent choice, holds heat, easy to clean, helps wear nails
• Slate: Similar to tile, natural appearance
• Reptile carpet: Reusable, safe, easy to clean
• Paper towels: Cheap, hygienic, good for juveniles
• Newspaper: Budget option, easy to replace
• Excavator clay: Allows digging, hardens when dry

Substrates to Avoid

These can cause serious problems:

• Sand: Impaction risk, especially for juveniles
• Calci-sand: Still causes impaction despite marketing
• Wood shavings: Ingestion risk, splinters
• Walnut shell: Sharp, impaction danger
• Loose substrates for juveniles: High impaction risk

Adult Sand Debate

Controversial topic:

• Some experienced keepers use sand for adults
• Natural substrate in wild
• Still carries impaction risk
• Only for healthy adults with proper husbandry
• Many vets recommend avoiding entirely
• Tile is safer alternative

Humidity and Hydration

Humidity Requirements

Bearded dragons need low humidity:

• Normal range: 30-40%
• Shedding period: Increase to 40-50% temporarily
• Too high: Respiratory infections, skin problems
• Too low: Shedding difficulties, dehydration
• Monitor: Digital hygrometer

Water Provision

Ensure proper hydration:

• Water bowl: Shallow dish, changed daily
• Misting: Light misting 2-3 times weekly
• Bathing: Warm baths 1-2 times weekly
• Food moisture: Hydration from vegetables
• Watch for: Sunken eyes, wrinkled skin (dehydration signs)

Diet and Nutrition

Omnivorous Diet

Bearded dragons eat both insects and plants:

• Juveniles (0-6 months): 80% insects, 20% vegetables
• Sub-adults (6-12 months): 50% insects, 50% vegetables
• Adults (12+ months): 20% insects, 80% vegetables
• Feeding frequency: Daily for juveniles, every other day for adults

Feeder Insects

Appropriate insect options:

• Staples: Dubia roaches, crickets, locusts
• Treats: Calciworms, silkworms, hornworms
• Occasional: Mealworms (high fat), waxworms (very high fat)
• Avoid: Wild-caught insects, fireflies (toxic), boxelder bugs
• Size rule: No larger than space between dragon's eyes

Gut Loading Insects

Improve nutritional value:

• Feed insects nutritious food 24 hours before feeding
• Use commercial gut load or fresh vegetables
• Well-fed insects = well-fed dragon
• Increases vitamin and mineral content

Vegetables and Greens

Daily salad essentials:

• Staple greens: Collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens
• Other vegetables: Butternut squash, bell peppers, courgette, green beans
• Occasional: Carrots, sweet potato, broccoli
• Avoid: Lettuce (no nutrition), spinach (binds calcium), avocado (toxic)
• Preparation: Chop into small pieces, mix variety

Fruits

Treats only, not staples:

• Safe options: Berries, melon, mango, papaya
• Frequency: Once or twice weekly maximum
• Why limited: High sugar content
• Avoid: Citrus fruits

Supplements

Essential for health:

• Calcium powder: Daily for juveniles, 3-4x weekly for adults
• Calcium with D3: 2-3x weekly if UVB is adequate
• Multivitamin: Once weekly
• Application: Dust insects, sprinkle on salad
• Don't over-supplement: Follow guidelines

Foods to Avoid

Never feed these:

• Avocado (toxic)
• Rhubarb (toxic)
• Fireflies (deadly)
• Wild-caught insects (pesticides)
• Spinach (calcium binding)
• Lettuce (no nutritional value)

Handling and Interaction

Building Trust

Develop a bond gradually:

• Settling period: 1-2 weeks before handling
• Start slowly: Short 5-10 minute sessions
• Support properly: Support body and legs
• Stay low: Sit down to prevent falls
• Read body language: Respect stress signals
• Positive associations: Offer treats during handling

Proper Handling Technique

Safe handling methods:

• Approach from side, not above (predator angle)
• Scoop from underneath, support chest and hindquarters
• Let them walk from hand to hand
• Keep sessions short initially
• Never grab by tail
• Wash hands before and after

Signs of Stress

Watch for these indicators:

• Beard puffing and darkening
• Hissing or mouth gaping
• Attempting to escape
• Tail twitching
• Flattening body
• Defecating (stress response)

Taming Tips

Help nervous dragons become confident:

• Hand-feed treats to build positive associations
• Spend time near enclosure talking softly
• Handle regularly but respect boundaries
• Be patient - some take longer than others
• Never force interaction

Health and Wellness

Signs of a Healthy Bearded Dragon

What to look for:

• Clear, bright eyes
• Alert and responsive
• Good appetite
• Regular bowel movements
• Active during the day
• Smooth, complete sheds
• Good body weight
• No visible injuries or swelling

Common Health Issues

Problems to watch for:

• Metabolic bone disease (MBD): From calcium/UVB deficiency
• Impaction: From inappropriate substrate or large prey
• Respiratory infections: From incorrect temperatures/humidity
• Parasites: Internal and external
• Mouth rot: Bacterial infection
• Tail rot: From injury or infection
• Adenovirus: Viral infection, no cure

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Serious but preventable:

• Causes: Insufficient UVB, calcium deficiency, improper diet
• Signs: Soft jaw, swollen limbs, tremors, lethargy, deformities
• Prevention: Proper UVB, calcium supplementation, balanced diet
• Treatment: Veterinary care, improved husbandry
• Prognosis: Reversible if caught early

Impaction

Digestive blockage:

• Causes: Loose substrate ingestion, prey too large, dehydration
• Signs: No bowel movements, lethargy, loss of appetite, dragging back legs
• Prevention: Appropriate substrate, correct prey size, proper hydration
• Treatment: Warm baths, gentle massage, veterinary care if severe

Shedding

Normal process, usually problem-free:

• Frequency: Juveniles shed frequently, adults every few months
• Signs: Dull colour, cloudy eyes, reduced appetite
• Help: Increase humidity slightly, provide rough surfaces
• Bathing: Warm baths help loosen shed
• Never pull: Let shed come off naturally
• Stuck shed: Soak and gently remove, especially toes and tail tip

Finding a Reptile Vet

Essential before emergencies:

• Locate exotic/reptile specialist vet
• Not all vets treat reptiles
• Schedule wellness check after purchase
• Annual check-ups recommended
• Keep contact details accessible

Brumation

Understanding Brumation

Reptile version of hibernation:

• What it is: Period of dormancy during cooler months
• When: Usually autumn/winter
• Duration: Few weeks to several months
• Signs: Reduced appetite, increased sleeping, less activity
• Not all brumate: Especially in captivity with stable conditions

Managing Brumation

If your dragon brumates:

• Ensure they're healthy first (vet check)
• Gradually reduce temperatures and photoperiod
• Stop feeding once they stop eating
• Provide water throughout
• Check weekly for health issues
• Gradually increase temps/light when emerging

Preventing Brumation

If you prefer to avoid it:

• Maintain consistent temperatures year-round
• Keep photoperiod stable
• Continue regular feeding
• Most captive dragons won't brumate with stable conditions

Breeding Considerations

Before You Breed

Serious considerations:

• Requires extensive knowledge and experience
• Significant financial investment
• Clutches of 15-30 eggs common
• Need homes for all babies
• Health risks to female
• Not recommended for beginners

Sexing Bearded Dragons

Determining gender:

• Males: Larger femoral pores, hemipenal bulges, larger heads
• Females: Smaller femoral pores, no bulges, smaller overall
• Reliable at: 8-12 months old
• Professional help: Vet or experienced breeder can confirm

Enclosure Setup Guide

Complete Setup Checklist

Everything you need:

• 120-gallon enclosure minimum (adults)
• Basking bulb (75-150W)
• UVB tube (10.0 or 12%)
• Dimming thermostat
• Digital thermometers (2)
• Infrared thermometer
• Hygrometer
• Timer for lights
• Substrate (tile recommended)
• Basking platform/rock
• Hides (2 minimum)
• Water dish
• Food dishes
• Décor (branches, rocks)
• Calcium and vitamin supplements

Setup Costs

Budget expectations:

• Enclosure: £100-£300
• Heating/lighting: £80-£150
• Thermostats/monitoring: £50-£100
• Substrate/décor: £30-£80
• The dragon: £40-£150
• Total initial: £300-£780
• Monthly ongoing: £30-£60 (food, electricity)

Daily Care Routine

Morning Tasks

Start the day right:

• Turn on lights (or check timer)
• Check temperatures
• Provide fresh water
• Offer salad (adults)
• Observe behaviour and health

Feeding Schedule

Meal timing:

• Juveniles: Insects 2-3x daily, salad always available
• Adults: Insects every other day, salad daily
• Timing: Feed after basking, allow 2 hours to digest before lights off

Evening Tasks

End of day care:

• Remove uneaten insects
• Spot clean waste
• Check temperatures one last time
• Lights off (or check timer)

Weekly Tasks

Regular maintenance:

• Deep clean water dish
• Remove all waste
• Wipe down glass/walls
• Bath 1-2 times
• Check equipment

Monthly Tasks

Thorough care:

• Full enclosure clean
• Disinfect all décor
• Check UVB output (if you have meter)
• Weigh dragon
• Inspect for health issues

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Critical Errors

Don't make these mistakes:

• No UVB lighting: Causes MBD, fatal
• Wrong temperatures: Affects digestion, health
• Cohabitation: Causes stress, fighting, injury
• Inappropriate diet: Too many insects for adults
• No supplements: Leads to deficiencies
• Too small enclosure: Stress, health issues
• Loose substrate for juveniles: Impaction risk
• Handling too soon: Stress during settling period

Choosing Your Bearded Dragon

Where to Get One

Source responsibly:

• Reputable breeders: Best option, healthy animals
• Reptile expos: Meet breeders, see parents
• Specialist shops: Choose carefully, check conditions
• Rescue: Give a dragon second chance
• Avoid: Wild-caught, sick animals, impulse purchases

Health Checks

What to look for:

• Alert and active
• Clear eyes
• No visible injuries
• Good body weight
• Clean vent
• All toes and tail tip intact
• No stuck shed
• Responsive to movement

Age Considerations

Juveniles vs adults:

• Juveniles: More work, frequent feeding, but bond from young
• Adults: Less demanding, personality established, may need rehoming adjustment
• Recommendation: 3-6 months old ideal for beginners

Your Bearded Dragon Journey

Bearded dragons are truly special reptiles that offer a unique pet-keeping experience. Their interactive nature, fascinating behaviours, and relatively straightforward care make them excellent companions for both beginners and experienced reptile enthusiasts.

Success with bearded dragons comes down to providing proper temperatures, essential UVB lighting, a balanced diet, and appropriate housing. Get these fundamentals right, and your beardie will thrive for 10-15 years, providing endless entertainment and companionship.

Remember, bearded dragons are individuals with unique personalities. Some are bold and outgoing from day one, whilst others take time to build confidence. Be patient, consistent with care, and respectful of their needs, and you'll develop a wonderful bond with your scaly friend.

The investment in proper equipment and quality care pays dividends in the form of a healthy, happy dragon who recognises you, responds to your presence, and becomes a true member of your family. There's something magical about a bearded dragon who runs to the glass when you enter the room or falls asleep in your lap during handling sessions.

Welcome to the wonderful world of bearded dragon keeping – your new best friend is waiting!

Happy dragon keeping from all of us at Petziverse!